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How a First-Century Snow Cone Became Ice Cream

How a First-Century Snow Cone Became Ice Cream

Frankie's World - Sn 1/Ep 7Frankie's World - Sn 1/Ep 7

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What we know as ice cream today could be thanks to a crazy Roman emperor.

Recipe

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Salted Caramel and Chocolate Ice Cream

Ingredients

  • For the caramel:

  • 3/4 cup sugar

  • 2 tablespoons water

  • 1 cup cream, room temperature

  • 1/2 teaspoon sea salt flakes

  • For the ice cream:

  • 1 1/2 cups milk

  • 3/4 cup heavy cream

  • 6 egg yolks

  • 2 tablespoons sugar

  • Chocolate ganache swirl:

  • 6 ounces dark chocolate chips

  • 1/3 cup heavy cream

  • 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Instructions

  1. Heat sugar and water in large sauté pan. When it begins to melt and turn amber, swirl the pan to incorporate all the sugar and cook until fully melted and amber. Pour the room temperature cream and salt flakes into the sugar mixture and transfer to a bowl to cool. While it's cooling, heat the milk and heavy cream to a slight simmer.

  2. While that's heating, beat the egg yolks and sugar until pale yellow. Temper the egg yolks by slowly pouring the heated milk and cream into the yolks. Return the mixture to the original pot and cook slowly, while stirring until it coats the back of a wooden spoon. Pour this mixture into the caramel and stir to fully incorporate. Chill for 2-4 hours.

  3. Once the custard is cool, add it to an ice cream maker and churn until thick.

  4. When the mixture is almost done, make the ganache. Heat the chocolate chips over a double boiler until melted, then stir in cream and cayenne.

  5. Cool at room temperature, then pour into the ice cream maker. Continue to churn for about 40 seconds.

  6. Put ice cream in a container and freeze for at least two hours.

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Transcript

- They say the Chinese had ice cream as far back as 3,000 BC. But there's not a whole lot of record of that. What is known is that Italian ice, or more technically, granita, was a favorite of the Roman emperor Nero 2,000 years ago. But without refrigeration, how did he keep it cold? You need to know a little bit about Nero. He was a loony. - [Announcer] Frankie's World. - Nero was married four times. His fourth wife was a man who he castrated and dressed up in women's clothing because that person looked like his first wife. He dipped Christians in oil and lit them on fire to light the hallway. He staged mandatory performances where his guests and family would come watch him play the lute for hours on end, poorly, while they pretended to enjoy it. And he killed his own mother. His rep is so bad, that many biblical scholars contend that the number 666 in Revelations is actually code for Nero. And that he was the original Antichrist. His ultimate bling was a circular dining room made of stone on top of ball bearings that spun slowly, powered by flowing water, while he ate. He invented the lazy susan, but it was a room. Now, there is an awful lot of evidence that says that what we just told you isn't probably true. Except for the dining room, they found that, it really existed. Historians say that Nero was actually pretty popular with the poor. After the whole city burnt down, he let them come into the palace. But those dirty legends, they'll live forever, because like ice cream, we cannot get enough of them. Which brings us back to ice cream. How did Nero keep his proto-ice cream frozen? - Your highness, we have ascended the great slopes and we have collected the white, frozen water you requested. - It took you long enough. The texture is fantastic, but, there's absolutely no flavor. There's no flavor, kill them both. - Wait, wait your highness, perhaps if you pour some of your royal beverage on it. - My lemonade. - Brilliant idea, sir. Your highness. - Mmm. Delicious. I'll share it with my friends. Friends, I've just invented frozen dessert. Come and try it. No really, come try it or I'll burn you alive. - Out of sheer desperation to please their leader, the great Nero, his snow slaves figured out how to bring ice down from the mountains. And not like a little bit of ice, a lot of ice. - Why don't you ever help me? - We discussed, my Hermes, shut up. - Jesus Christ, that is a giant piece of ice. - Thank you. - Gentlemen, how are we to keep this frozen solid like this? Won't it eventually magically turn back into water? - Yes, perhaps you could keep it in your giant cavern. - You mean the one by my ocean? - The very same, your highness. It is quite cold in there. - I've had the most brilliant idea, everyone. We'll store the giant snow in my beach garage. Everyone, come look what my snow slaves brought me. No, look, or I'll have you castrated. - The ice that the slaves brought back to impress Nero was so large that it kept itself frozen in his caves year-round. I mean, the mass of this thing prevented it from melting. It was a gigantic block of ice. So on a hot day, when you're licking that ice cream, spare a thought for Nero, Antichrist, mother killer, Christian burner, and maybe even the inventor of the refrigerator. Feelings. You know, I just can't find the one. It's a paradox of choice. How can I pick one and be happy when I know there are so many possibilities out there. I have friends who are settled and happy. Yeah, I know, but you guys are perfect for each other, you always have been, you know? I'll never find someone like that because maybe I'm just too picky. What do you mean, who's this? It's Frankie. Hey, you gotta go? Okay. All right, bye, Ma. But I'm a lucky guy because I got, I got one of these. And these, from what I understand, make decision making possible because of these applications. Apps, they call them. Like this one, E creamery inder. E creamery inder. It says it can help me find a match. You can follow along right here, because I have no shame at this point. Yeah, as if I couldn't tell from the picture. Enjoys long walks on the beach? Yeah, you and everybody else. Boring. My god, you are too young, what would we even talk about? Bieber's latest tour? Rum Raisin, nice. Very sweet, I love the elderly, but this one seems like it's probably got a lot of baggage. Man, the composition and the photo are just fantastic, but it raises a red flag because anyone who puts that much time into their profile picture is probably a total nut. Now this is a tragedy. No focus, trying to be everything for everyone, all of the time, never comfortable in their own skin. Sorry, sweetheart. Agh, what is, I don't even. I don't even know what this, I don't even know what this is. Oh my god, cocoa. I know this ice cream, I mean. I used to know this. We used to get, uh, real messy. After all these years, cocoa's still hot. Ah, chocolate. Uncluttered, simple, dangerous, fantastic. Tasty. I still love chocolate. - [Announcer] It's cooking time. - Do you remember your first love? You were innocent, they were innocent. Everything was happy. And over time, it became complicated. Just like ice cream. You think it's this wonderful, easy, simple thing, but it's quite complicated. And the one that we're making today actually starts by cooking sugar in a frying pan. The first thing you want to do is hydrate your sugar. We are making caramel, which is the caramelization of sugar. I want to use the spatula, but don't use the spatula, don't touch it. Just let this happen. Because the spatula is gonna make the sugar hit the cold part of the pan. And when the sugar hits the cold part of the pan, it's gonna crystallize. When it's crystallized, it gets hard. And it looks pretty, but it might send you to the dentist. You need to figure out how to homogenize this in the most gentle way possible. And it might be with this. But you're not allowed to do much. Just pull it in. Two minutes ago I told you chocolate was the greatest thing ever. Why am I making caramel? Chocolate can be elevated by every single ingredient being the most voluptuous that they can be. So why have just plain white sugar, when you can have caramelized sugar? Why have just cream and milk when you can put egg yolks and turn it into a custard first? Why not call the show, rhetorical questions with Frankie? Chocolate as a solo act is fantastic, but with a really solid backing band, it can be even better. So look, we're making caramel. Now it's flowing in a wonderful, beautiful manner. And now is the perfect time for you to come in with your cream. Ooh, it smells fantastic. You don't want it to crystallize, so you don't want to be using ice cold cream here. Nice and consistent. We have this lovely caramel, which is delicious, because it's sugar and cream. But if we put some salt inside of it, it's gonna be even better. Because salt is delicious too. But also because salt opens up the taste buds on your tongue and allows the cream and sugar to taste more intense. So now we've got our caramel, and we're gonna heat up our milk and we're gonna heat up our cream. Just to the simmer. More sugar. And this is gonna go in with our egg yolks here. These will be beaten to oblivion, which is that star right over there. These will start turning paler and paler in color, so that means you're incorporating air. Actually one of the biggest improvements in ice cream in the last hundred years is the incorporation of air, which is thanks to electricity, like this thing. Okay, look at that, it is much softer in color than it was when we began. And how's our milk doing? We're looking right now just for bubbles to emerge. Do you see the little popping happening? If you, ah, that's the right temperature. And we take this milk, and you slowly bring it into the eggs. It's called tempering. And that prevents you from getting scrambled eggs. Be patient, don't let the eggs curdle. So this is pasteurizing the eggs, which is making it food-safe. Ah! Okay, we have our tempered egg yolks, our hot cream and milk, and these go directly back into here. You want to keep this moving, because once again, we don't want the eggs to cook. But we are looking for something to get a little thicker. This is a little foamy right now. Keep it moving, people. Take a peek. Eh, it's not really happened yet. Getting there. If the line stays solid, cool, now we can make our ice cream. The French call that nappe, which either means setting the table or pulling the entire tablecloth from underneath the entire set table. One of the two. But the point is that it stays. Caramel goes in, this is the marriage right here. Oh, look at this. And this is just to catch any lumps of sugar that may have formed, or any pieces of egg yolk that you did not treat with the gentleness and kindness that I had asked of you. Looks like we've done a pretty good job though. Now, you ever see the film form on top of anything that's got fat in it? That's no good. You can prevent that from happening by putting this directly onto the surface. That is the fat skin hack method. And now we will put this into our refrigerator so that the temperature drops not to absolute zero, but to something around, eh, 38. Fridge, put it in the fridge. This thing is literally ice cold. It's an ice cream barrel, and this is an ice cream churner, and no, you cannot put this on top of your blender, it won't work. Here comes our caramel mixture. And now this goes in here so that things don't get stuck to the walls. And now this is gonna churn. But why would we just wait and watch it churn, when we could make some chocolate ganache in the meantime? That's what I'm gonna do. Here we have a bain-marie, also known as a double boiler. Simmering water underneath our heatproof bowl. And it is wonderful, because the steam is always going to be the same temperature because there's no pressure buildup in there. And so it's the perfect temperature to melt chocolate, is the point. We're gonna pour some cream in there as well. And what this is gonna do is it's gonna make a ganache. And the good thing about a ganache is, when you put the ganache into the cold ice cream, the chocolate doesn't re-seize. I also have some cayenne pepper here. And the Mexicans, who are the ones who cultivated chocolate before anybody else, they sometimes put spicy things into the chocolate. So I'm doing that, because it's dangerous. But also it pays homage to chocolate's origins. That is looking pretty smooth. I think we're done here. Caramel ice cream, which I'm gonna try right now. Oh. It's so delicious. You know what I taste? I taste the greatest backing band of all time. And it's time to bring the lead singer in. Here it comes! If you put this at the beginning, you'd have complete homogeny in color. If you put it now, you get swirls, and potentially some feckles, fleckles? There's a word. Speckles! It just looks like you tried harder than if you just put everything in a pot and mixed it up, you know what I mean? But you have to remember, this has already been churned. And what happens when you over-churn cream? You get butter. And now we're going to put it into a little quart container here, and freeze it. The ice cream is totally edible, but if you put it in the freezer it's gonna be even better. So that's what we're gonna do right now. And then I'm going to lick the entire countertop, that's what's happening. Many hours later. What we have here, ladies and gents, is ice cream of the homemade variety. Which is a rare, endangered species. Oh, boy. We've done it again. Look at that, that's beautiful. Fleckled. This is increible. Words cannot express, but I will try to explain. This is like, the real band, not the cover band, right? The sugar has been taken up a notch by being caramelized. The milk and cream have been taken up a notch by having egg yolks added to them. The chocolate turned into a ganache, which gives it a semi-soft, almost chip-like texture, but smoother than that. And then of course, there's that hint of pepper in the back of the throat. If I had to spend the rest of my life with one ice cream, it would be her. I'm so glad I swiped right. Frankie's World.

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