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Trevor and his guide, Anubhav Sapra, sit down with the locals to break the fast and celebrate iftar. Then they hit the back alleys of the city to sample the best street food Delhi has to offer.

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Transcript

- All right, check it out guys, it's Trevor James, hanging out with my good buddy Anubhav Sapra and I'm so pumped 'cause today, we are going to go for a huge street food tour of Old Delhi. - Yeah, so we are deep in Old Delhi and we're going on a full-on street food tour. - Awesome, let's check it out. This is Old Delhi, and here, deep in the back lanes, you get a feeling like you're stepping into another world, and we flew in here specifically for the street food during Ramadan. Today, with our good friend Anubhav, we're going in. Starting by breaking the fast with all the locals at the largest Mosque in Delhi, and then roaming deep in the back lanes at night, eating a ton of incredible street food with all the locals post Iftar, AKA the meal after sunset during Ramadan, let's eat. So what's the plan? - We are going to get some Iftar special food first, and then we'll break the fast with everyone at Mosque in Jama Masjid. - Let's try it out! First up, Anubhav and I are pick up a ton of different classic street foods to bring to the mosque to break the fast with and share with the locals. Like minced mutton samosas, lentil kachoris, sweet and crispy fried paneer jalebis, and buffalo meatballs It's overwhelming, truly overwhelming here. - This the biggest mosque in Delhi. - Really? - Yeah, yeah, the biggest mosque in Delhi. In fact, people say the biggest mosque in India but many historians say this not the biggest one, the biggest one is in Bhopal. But in Delhi, you can certainly say the biggest mosque in Delhi. - Wow, the splendor. It's so grand. Unbelievably beautiful, incredible, incredible. Take shoes off right here? - You have to carry the shoes inside. - Wow just look at this. - We will come with our families here and they'll set up, they'll bring the mattress and they will wait for the time to break the fast. - Look at this beautiful scene, it's just so grand, the splendor is incredible. And we've got all our snacks! - Yeah we've got so much of food! - And we're gonna go wait for the time and then try 'em out. So you can see they're just setting up for the-- - It's like free food, community food, communal food. So they're banana and dates. - Okay, banana and dates. - So we can share our food with them and they can share their food with us. - Perfect! This is it here? - Yeah this is here. - Wow, right with the locals. So we can break the fast here right? - We can break the fast with the locals, we'll share our food with them and we'll have their food. - Awesome, so we're just waiting for the call to prayer, is that right? - Yeah, so around 7:10, that's the time when they'll break the fast, you'll hear a sound. - And we've got all of this food to break the fast with. So what do got here today? - We have kacholi, dal kacholi. - So kacholi with lentil? And-- - Keema samosa. - Keema samosa so, minced meat samosa? Nice, and then this is the standard plate they provide you right? - Yeah, yeah. - So banana, apple, this is a candy? - Dal barfi - Dal barfi, which is made from-- - Lentil, lentil barfi. - So it's like a sweet lentil candy. Nice, and then some dates and a potato samosa. - And potato pakora. - Oh potato pakora! And then some bread. - Yeah we have butter sheer mal that's butter with jam. - Oh beautiful. - Then we have paneer jalebi. - Oh paneer jalebi, so made with cottage cheese, deep fried, and it's not sweet or? - It's sweet, it's soaked in sugar. - Soaked in sugar, and then-- - Meatballs, we call it keema goli. - Keema goli - yeah, keema goli, that means meatballs. - So buffalo meatballs, full of spice, and then what about this here? There's mixed veg pakora. - Tons of pakora, so chili, spinach-- - Potato, cottage cheese. - Oh nice, and we can share this with all the locals right? Because we got more than everybody else, so we'll share. - And Ramadan is all about sharing. - Oh okay, you can see all the locals they're just ready. - So this is a time where people do prayers. So many people are sitting here, they're praying to the god and whatever wish you want, you can ask from the god. So this like a time of praying. And it's really good what we're doing here because Ramadan is all about inter-faith understanding. People come from other faith, they also come and they share the food with others. So it's all about inter-faith. - It's all about acceptance; acceptance, understanding. You just feel a real sense of peace when you come in here. It's quite a magical experience and it's gonna happen any second now. There's gonna be a bang right? You see the green flag? So he shows the green flag and the minarets light up. - Oh and the minarets light up! - The minarets are lit up no? Now have the dates. - Take the date? Okay, take the date. - You can share with others. - Okay. This is just amazing, this scene, everyone's breaking the fast now. - But they've been fasting for almost 14, 15 hours. - Really? - Yeah. - And no water? - No water. - And after trying out each of the tasty snacks, giving the rest away, we made our way for a quick walk around the mosque before going back into the extremely busy back lanes of Old Delhi to feast on tons of street food. So we can just give the rest to the kids, and go get more food right? - Yeah, we'll go to main street and we'll try the street food. - Awesome; so what's happening now? - So now, people are offering their prayers, so they break the fast, then they're having their prayers. - Wow this is an amazing experience. And they're done, so now they're done and we can join them on the street to eat right? - Yeah, yeah. - Perfect. - Now we are going to have a proper full-on street food tour - Full-on street food tour coming up! Wow, with all the locals. And after just a quick walk down the stairs of the mosque, we were right in the heart of Old Delhi. - Now we are going to try different street food in Old Delhi - Wow, this is amazing, we're in the heart, the soul, deep in the streets; let's go try it out! So we're just exploring the back streets now and Anubhav is taking us to try a ton of food. - So we're going to having fried chicken, the oldest fried chicken shop in Delhi. - Oh right here? - Right here - Oh it's right here. - 1952, if you ask me personally, it's better than KFC. - Really? - Yeah I call it JFC, Jama Masjid Fried Chicken . - JFC, so this is all the marination here. - Chickpea flour, then you have spices, turmeric, chili, all of that. - Wow, and they just fry it up over here, beautiful. That's our piece. - So what they do is like this half right? Then again when you order it, they make small pieces and they deep fry it. So they fry twice. - There it goes, twice fried Jama Masjid chicken. And you can see they're just adding all that spice on there. - Some people they don't want the small pieces, they will ask for the whole piece, thick piece. - Whoa, so he just added on all that, that's turmeric? - That's chaat masala. - Oh chaat masala! - Dried mango power, yellow chili, salt, black salt, all that mixed together. - And they're just serving it with a little chutney? What are they putting on there? - That's chutney with yellow chilies, dried mango powder, all of that. Wow, look at this! Wow, look at that, so this is special Delhi fried chicken. - Yeah you can call it DFC as well, Delhi fried chicken. - Let's go in for that. It's all about the spice mix, turmeric! - Turmeric is there, then you have dried mango powder, yellow chilies. - Yellow chilies and lime! - And lime! - It's a little tangy and a little salty but not too salty. Mm! Crispy and juicy. And it's got that nice spicy mustardy, masala kick. - The best part is that the owner is there, he manages the shop and he's the one who does all the mixing of marination, everything. - He's got it all in his head. - He knows yeah. - Let's keep exploring. Next up, Anubhav is bringing us for some of the most juicy butter chicken kebabs of your dreams. Covered in butter and spices and lemon and all grilled right on the street. I feel like there's just an unlimited amount of food to try, every stall has something different. - Yeah it changes from pre-Iftar and post-Iftar; the food changes. - Wow, what's up next? - Next up we try butter chicken tikka. - Wow, look at this! Butter chicken tikka? - Yeah . - Oh man, right on the coals. - Yeah so there's marinated and half-cooked chicken. Then they barbecue it, there's the boiling butter. - Oh boiling butter, so this is half-cooked? - Half-cooked, that's half-cooked. - And then they put it right on the grill? - Yeah and then they add butter, spices, some yogurt and cream on it. You can see that's a big brick of butter. - Wow it's heavy, look at the butter they put in there! Amazing! - They have five floors, they sell only two dishes, they have butter chicken and then they have kebab that's it. - Wow, overwhelming food selection here. They just cover it in butter. - Very simple, many people try to copy him but no one could match his quality. - Really? - Yeah, it's very special. - You want to try? - Oh! Sure, yogurt and cream. - You have to keep moving it like this. - Oh, keep turning it, nice; amazing! - He's asking me like normal or spicy, I say normal. - Oh and butter! Loading it up on the butter. Oh so it's gonna be creamy and spicy! Whoa, thank you. - This is the butter floating. - Oh, look at all the butter in there. Looks quite char-y and smokey. Grilled butter chicken, oh amazing! - This kind of butter chicken, you won't get anywhere in India. It's very special. - It's so buttery! - It's buttery and it tastes lemon-y. Lemon in there, a lot of yogurt. - Buttery, lemon-y, and smokey. How late does the Iftar go for? - It'll keep going on. - Keep going till two or three? - Till around four o'clock. And then they'll start the fast again. So we can keep eating this and keep exploring. - Yeah, let's go. - And next up, I had no clue about it but Anubhav arranged for us to have a full meal at a local Iftar party. Full of biryani and delicious curries, all home cooked and full of intense flavors. So busy here. - Yeah it will get more busy in fact because people are coming after work to this place and then have the food. - So what's up next? - Next we're going to have biryani. Yeah we'll have buffalo biryani and chicken biryani, both. - Earlier on, as we explored the back streets of Old Delhi, Anubhav introduced us to his local friend, Mr. Naeem. The chef of the upcoming Iftar party. - He's a very renowned person who makes different kind of Mowgli dishes. So this is chicken korma. - Chicken korma. - He's adding chicken in the curry. That's chicken korma. - So it's chicken and it looks like a lot of oil and spice. - Oil and spices, onion, ginger, garlic, yogurt. - That is incredible, chicken korma. - This is nihari. - Oh nihari! - This buffalo, yeah buffalo nahari. - So it's essentially buffalo and oil and spice. - Yeah, and they also have thickener, chickpea flour. And then that's the biryani. - Oh and biryani. - So it's half-cooked, so they'll put it over the heat for almost half an hour. - And just a short while later, we were walking into a beautiful, old courtyard to feast! - Wow, they're just carrying the biryani in. There's just these huge pots of biryani. Oh, there's the biryani! So is this buffalo biryani? - [Anubhav] Chicken - [Trevor] Chicken biryani. - [Anubhav] So it's basmati rice, chicken cooked with rice - [Trevor] And tons of spice. - [Anubhav] Yeah, and at the bottom you have a layer of leaf and rice. - [Trevor] And it's all layered right? - [Anubhav] All layered. - [Trevor] Saffron-- - [Anubhav] Cardamom. - [Trevor] Oh yeah, and the korma over there, which is a stew right? - [Anubhav] Yeah it's a stew, chicken, chicken-- - Spicy chicken stew; what's this up here? - [Anubhav] Lentil salgua. - [Trevor] Lentil salgua, so a lentil pudding? - [Anubhav] And cooked in kheer with dry fruits, then they have a khamiri roti. - [Trevor] khamiri roti, so it's a bread. - [Anubhav] Bread, yeah, with yeast. - Yeast bread, wow we're getting the full real deal here. Deep in the streets of Delhi, real biryani. And this is like an Iftar party right? - It's an Iftar party and people invited their friends and family and it's like crowd get together. - So after the feast, after the fast is broken, everybody gathers here and eats right? - Yeah, especially 'cause this is like a private get together. So people invited their friends and family. - Wow, so we got a full spread here, oh and korma! So we got buffalo nihari right? - Buffalo nihari, we have chicken korma-- - Chicken korma, which is a spicy chicken? - [Anubhav] It's a spicy chicken with onion, ginger, garlic, yogurt, that's all the oil gets separated because of the yogurt. Then you have chicken biryani-- - [Trevor] Chicken biryani, lots of spices, cloves-- - [Anubhav] Cloves, cardamom. - And then a beautiful khamiri roti, yeast bread. Let's go in for this chicken korma and get a piece too. Oh yeah, look at that! Mm, oh, that's delicious. Slight sweetness from onion, not spicy it's really smooth! Very delicious, . Try the nihari, spicy buffalo stew. Just look at that nihari, so lot's of ghee? - [Anubhav] Lots of ghee in it. And they add some ginger, chilies over there. - [Trevor] Ginger, chilies, whoa, fatty joy! - He's loving it! - Whoa, whoa, is that the bone marrow? - It's bone marrow, what you had was the bone marrow. - I had bone marrow! That's so rich. - If you have bone marrow that's called . - So that's like , is like bone marrow. The best part of this food is not commercial food. It's like they prepare it for their family and us. - Like home style. - Home style food. - Just love all these flavors here, the chicken korma, it's like almost slightly sweet and onion-y. And then this the nihari, a little spicier, really rich with that really strong bone marrow; and then of course the chicken biryani, it's so fluffy and light, not overpowering, and the chicken just falls off the bone; really beautiful. Thank you . Thank you, amazing; biryani, so much delicious food here. Awesome, thanks so much. Next up Anubhav is bringing us for some delicious changezi chicken cooked right on the flat grill at the original joint that invented it. This is what it's all about guys, going deep into the alleys, food range and finding the best local specialties; meeting friendly people along the way and discovering new flavors, there's nothing better. What's up next? - Next we're going to try changezi chicken. - Changezi chicken, oh right in here! - This is the place where changezi chicken was first started like invented. So this is the birthplace of changezi chicken. - So what is changezi chicken? - Basically onion, tomato based sauce-- - Oh, there it is there! - There's the curry paste and they have ginger, garlic, onion, tomatoes. - Wow, you can smell the onions in there! - And they add lots of ghee in it. - Lots of ghee! It's sweet, you can smell it's almost sweet. And then he's gonna load some chicken in right? - Now he's add chicken that's grilled chicken. - That's grilled chicken. So they throw the onion, tomato sauce and then they put the chicken on and you can really smell that-- - [Anubhav] Adding more chicken in-- - [Trevor] More chicken. - [Anubhav] More curry paste - [Trevor] More curry, more ghee; oh that is so aromatic! - [Anubhav] Some coriander. - [Trevor] Lots of coriander, beautiful! - [Anubhav] And it has also ginger, you can see the ginger also in there. - [Trevor] Oh coriander and ginger in there. Oh, changezi chicken! Is this ours here? - Yeah we will sit inside and they take it. - That's to-go. - Yeah that's to-go. - And the chicken is here, okay let's go! Wow, so we've got the special changezi chicken, some-- - Khamiri roti. - Khamiri roti and some-- - Chutney and onion. - Mint chutney - mint chutney and onion. - Okay, so let's just go right in. Right from the tandoor. - Yeah, straight coming out of tandoor. - Beautiful and you can just scoop it up? - Yeah just scoop it up, you just pick the chicken. - Oh yeah, you can smell that sweet, onion-y goodness. Look at all that chicken, changezi chicken! And you can smell the tomato and the onion and the garlic and the ginger scooped up in that naan. - Tomato tangy. - Yeah that is insanely delicious. It's all about the gravy! - Yeah it's all about the gravy, the chicken is just grilled that's it, there's nothing in it - Oh and the coriander in there as well, you could actually just take the sauce. The chicken makes it better but actually the gravy, the flavor in there is so powerful and tangy and that onion, the tomato, the garlic, the ginger, the coriander, the naan just soaks it up. Take some of that chicken, oh wow, this is a really amazing night full of delicious food. - We have still two places to go. - Still going for more. That was just some insanely delicious chicken. - We are going to next place - Next place! Next up, Anubhav is taking us for some of the best ground buffalo seekh kebabs in the world. All right on a street dedicated to kebabs. Packed full of spices, fat and the aroma from the coals and all pinged onto thick metal skewers and peeled off by hand. And after your first bite, you're gonna wanna keep eating more and more. - Now we are gonna try kebabs. This is the lane right opposite Jama Masjid gate one and there are back-to-back shops selling kebabs. - So this is kebab lane. - You can call it kebab street, kebab lane. - Kebabs everywhere, I feel like it's a meat heaven here. - Yeah that's true it's a meat heaven. - Action, meat, smoke, and flavor. - This is kebab heaven - kebab heaven, wow! - So they have chicken kebabs, mutton kebabs, and buff kebabs. - Oh, and it's all ground meat? - All ground meat. - And it's on these big skewers, right over the coals. And they add the butter on! - You can smell it like the melting butter. - Oh and look at the mountain of kebabs! Juice is just bursting! - You can see like how we eat it. - Wow, you just grab it right from there! Whoa, so you can just take a skewer and eat it? - Yeah, definitely - You just bite it from here? - You can just pick the meat. - So you can just grab it? - Yeah, yeah just grab it. - Oh it's hot! Right off the grill. Oh it's yellow from turmeric. Let's try it out. - It's not exactly made in mutt you can taste the meat in it that's why the locals like it. - You can taste a little spice and a little turmeric. - Wow, the fat is just bursting from it. I think that flavors it a lot, hey? - Yeah, that's not dry it's very juicy. - It's juicy! And you can taste the turmeric and the chili. What an awesome scene and you can see all the locals are just loving it, beautiful! Thank you so much Anubhav, that was just an amazing experience in Old Delhi. - Thank you so much for coming there's much more to explore. - Wow great day and thank you so much for watching, amazing!

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